Gumbo Ranjan, Zanskar’s Sacred Mountain
28 Feb 2019

Gumbo Ranjan, Zanskar’s Sacred Mountain

A sudden crack comes from the direction of the mountain. Dust is rising from behind a rocky crag. Then I see it, gathering speed, ploughing over the scree down the mountainside, a trail of debris behind. I watch as the huge boulder continues unforgivingly, crossing my walking path and slapping

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The Journey to Lo Manthang
04 Feb 2019

The Journey to Lo Manthang

Lo Manthang is a village in the restricted territory of Upper Mustang that used to be the capital of the Kingdom of Lo. Nepali law requires foreign visitors to purchase a permit (US$500 for 10 days) to enter Upper Mustang, to help preserve the local culture and development in the

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Trekking the Annapurna Circuit with Tilicho Lake
20 Jan 2019

Trekking the Annapurna Circuit with Tilicho Lake

Last October, with five cousins, I completed the Annapurna Circuit plus Tilicho Lake trek. We had two weeks for the whole return trip from Kathmandu, and were able to finish in less time than anticipated. For travelers with limited time in Nepal, my itinerary is a good one to follow.

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Trek to Pikey Peak & Dudh Kunda
13 Jan 2019

Trek to Pikey Peak & Dudh Kunda

Pikey Peak used to be a popular trek, but since the Tenzing Hillary Airport at Lukla was opened in 1964, the upper Khumbu region has become more accessible. Many trekkers now prefer to get their views of Everest from the overcrowded Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp. The trekkers who

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What's Special About the Annapurna Sanctuary
08 Jan 2019

What’s Special About the Annapurna Sanctuary

Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) is very popular among travellers in Nepal. The ABC trek takes travellers inside the conservation area known as the Annapurna Sanctuary. While base camp is the spot from which climbers attempt their summit bids of Annapurna, the Sanctuary is the conservation and spiritually important area surrounding

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Photo by the author
03 Jan 2019

Reasons to Do the Everest Base Camp Trek in December

Most travelers choose to trek to Everest Base Camp between September and November, when there are clear skies and great Himalayan views. After November is considered the off-season as temperatures get cold and there are high chances of snow. However, if you want to avoid the crowds of peak season

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Damodar Kunda, A Hidden Pilgrimage Site in Upper Mustang
30 Dec 2018

Damodar Kunda, A Hidden Pilgrimage Site in Upper Mustang

Many travellers in Nepal have not heard of Damodar Kunda. There are a couple of reasons for this. The kundas (ponds) are located in the restricted Upper Mustang region, in the midst of a rugged landscape. To get there one must cross two passes over 5000 metres, making it quite

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How to Visit Bhutan on a Shoestring
26 Dec 2018

How to Visit Bhutan on a Shoestring

Bhutan is a fascinatingly preserved frontier of culture. Restricted and protected, it offers a superbly enlightening experience even for travelers with much experience in the Himalaya. Although it’s a notoriously expensive place to visit because you must book an approved tour, you do not need to spend much time (and

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Exploring Kohima, the Capital of Nagaland
14 Dec 2018

Exploring Kohima, the Capital of Nagaland

Through the large bay windows ahead of me, I see emerald peaks peer over a blanket of fog. It’s almost 9 AM in this town and the only noise I can hear is the static-y hum of the radio playing inside my room. The peaks are an extension of the

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