The Battle at Jit Gadhi fort and the Ruins of King Mani
Mukunda Sen’s Palace

The Jit Gadhi Fort, situated on the Tinau River’s western bank in Butwal, held a crucial role in the Anglo-Nepali War (1814–1816), where Colonel Ujir Singh Thapa led Nepal to a victorious triumph over the British East India Company in the Battle of Jitgadhi. The remnants of the past at this site, including the fort and the ruins of King Mani Mukunda Sen’s palace, are significant subjects of archeology in Butwal.

Butwal, a thriving sub-metropolitan city situated in Lumbini Province of West Nepal, occupies a strategic location at the confluence of diverse geographical and historical influences. Positioned on the banks of the Tinau River and at the northern edge of the Terai plain, Butwal enjoys a unique geographical advantage. As the intersection of two major national highways, the Mahendra Highway and the Siddhartha Highway, Butwal serves as a vital transportation hub, connecting western Nepal to the capital city of Kathmandu through both road and air networks. Its name, derived from “Batauli Bazaar,” the city’s oldest residential area located on the western bank of the Tinau, reflects its historical roots. In medieval times, Butwal was known as Khasauli, as it was believed to be established by the Khas kings. Later, after the collapse of the Khas empire, it was ruled by the Sen kings of Palpa when it developed as a trading point between the hills and the terai. In the 17th century, Palpa with Butwal was annexed by the Gorkha Empire. 

The Jit Gadhi Fort and Anglo-Nepali War

Military fortifications transcend their basic defensive purpose, serving as silent witnesses to the ebb and flow of empires. These architectural marvels chronicle not just military strategies but the complex stories of imperial dynasties, territorial conflicts, and the defining battles that shaped history. The Jit Gadhi Fort stands as more than a military fortification—it serves as a testament to imperial power dynamics and a pivotal historical conflict. Situated on the Tinau River’s western bank in Butwal, the fort, originally called Batauli fort, earned its name “Jitgadhi” (meaning “victory fort”) following the Nepali forces’ successful defense against British troops in 1816 CE. The Anglo-Nepali War (1814-16) witnessed the formidable fighting spirit of the Gurkhas as they fiercely resisted the expansion of the British East India Company. Despite facing significant challenges, the Gurkhas’ unwavering bravery and tenacity made a lasting impression on the British. Recognizing their exceptional combat abilities, the British subsequently recruited Gurkhas into their own armies, a tradition that continues to this day.

The Jit Gadhi fort played a significant role in the Anglo-Nepali War (1814–1816), where Colonel Ujir Singh Thapa led Nepal to victory in the Battle of Jitgadhi against the British East India Company. Before the war, British Major General John Sullivan Wood secretly visited Batauli (Butwal) with his team to weaken Palpa and capture it, aiming to open a trade route to Tibet. Kanak Nidhi Tiwari, a Nepali courtier, believed his ambitions couldn’t be fulfilled under Nepali rule, so he provided the British with confidential information about the Batauli fort, insisting on a promotion after their anticipated victory over Palpa. Aware of the British strategy, Ujir Singh Thapa, Commander in Chief of the Nepali army, vowed to build a magnificent temple for Palpa Bhagwati Shila if he could defeat the British forces. Ujir Singh Thapa, also known as Wazir Simha Thapa, was a Nepali administrator and military officer who led the soldiers during the war. Born in 1795, he was the son of Kazi Nain Singh Thapa, grandson of Sardar Amar Singh Thapa, and brother of Mukhtiyar (Premier) Mathbar Singh Thapa.

Following the death of his grandfather, Mukhtiyar Bhimsen Thapa appointed him as the administrator of Palpa, prompting him to travel for 20 days from Kathmandu to assume control of the Governor’s office at just 19 years old. As a Colonel in the Nepali Army, he commanded the Mid Western (Palpa-Butwal) axis during the Anglo-Nepali War. Known for his effective administration and courageous leadership, he anticipated threats from the British East India Company and vowed to defend the Jit Gadhi fort and defeat the British soldiers despite limited resources

The challenging terrain presented significant logistical hurdles for the British armies. The transportation of heavy artillery and the provision of adequate supplies to forces operating in the field proved to be arduous tasks. In one instance, a siege operation had to be abandoned due to a critical shortage of ammunition for the cannons. Furthermore, the Gurkha forts, strategically located near riverbanks like Jit Gadhi or perched on hilltops, offered formidable defenses. These positions rendered them difficult to assault effectively with conventional artillery and infantry tactics. The war also witnessed the loss of British Major General Gillespie early in the conflict. Despite being outnumbered and armed only with basic weapons like guns, cannons, swords, and spears, the limited Nepali forces, supported by local fighters, managed to defeat the superior British army of 4,000 equipped with modern artillery. 

Faced with the relentless advance of the British East India Company, possessing superior resources and the ability to sustain continuous campaigns, and with Kathmandu itself under imminent threat, the Nepali government ultimately decided to pursue peace negotiations. The 1816 Treaty of Sugauli, which concluded the war, imposed several significant terms upon Nepal. These included the establishment of a permanent British Resident at the Nepali court, the withdrawal of Nepali forces from Sikkim, and the cession of a substantial portion of Nepali territory to the East India Company, encompassing the kingdoms of Kumaun and Garhwal.

Jit Gadhi as a Touristic Destination

Through a joint initiative between the Nepal Army and local authorities, the fort has been enhanced with battlefield recreations. The historical complex features fortification walls, a garden, war paintings, war weapons like tanks, and thirteen commemorative statues of Nepali and British soldiers, including a life-sized representation of Colonel Thapa and other combatants from the conflict. There are also sculptures of martyrs who died defending the fort. The most iconic monument at Jit Gadhi features a statue of a woman carrying a child on her back while holding a gun. During the war, Nepali soldiers were outnumbered by the British, leading them to enlist common citizens for the defense of the fort, including women and children who volunteered to help.

Visitors can observe the fort’s expansive grounds from an elevated bridge-like observation ramp, though they should be mindful of the resident monkey population that has made the fort their home. While these primates add to the site’s character, some tourists may find their presence intimidating. There is a concealed underground tunnel in Jit Gadhi, constructed by King Mani Mukunda Sen of Palpa. This tunnel is thought to link Jit Gadhi with his palace, extending from Butwal to Nuwakot. Unfortunately, it has been closed to the public due to safety concerns and can no longer be explored. Each year, the Jit Gadhi festival in Butwal, Rupandehi district, commemorates this historic triumph over the British East India Company. The celebration’s organizing committee traditionally welcomes a contingent from the Nepal Army, who undertake a ceremonial march from Gorkha to participate in the festivities.

The Sen Kings

The Sen Dynasty of Palpa, Nepal, emerged in the late fifteenth century, a period often referred to as Nepal’s “dark ages” due to the limited historical records available at the time. While the precise origins of the Sen Dynasty are debated, prevailing historical opinion traces their lineage, alongside the Shah Dynasty, to the Sisodia clan of Suryavanshi Rajputs from Chittor, Rajasthan, India. Driven by the Muslim invasions of Rajasthan between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, the Sisodia Rajputs migrated northwards. This led to their eventual arrival in western Nepal. Khem Sen and Ram Sen are believed to have established an early Sen principality at Butwal, though the exact dates remain uncertain. Subsequently, King Rudra Sen (r. 1483-1518 CE) founded the Sen kingdom at Tansen, Palpa in the Madi Valley, within the territory of the Magar confederacy. The marriage of Rudra Sen’s son, Mukunda Sen (r. 1518-1553 CE), to a Magar princess introduced Magar lineage into the Sen dynasty.

A significant historical connection between the Sen and Shah dynasties was established through the marriage of King Gandharva Sen’s daughter to King Nara Bhupal Shah in 1717 CE. The couple gave birth to King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the unifier of modern Nepal. Further strengthening this bond, Prince Bahadur Shah’s son married the daughter of Mahadatta Sen in 1790 CE, fostering an alliance between Palpa and Gorkha that contributed to the expansion of the Nepali kingdom. Despite its military success, the Palpa kingdom was eventually annexed by the expanding Gorkha kingdom in 1806 CE. The Sen Dynasty formally ended with the establishment of the Rana regime in 1846 CE. Throughout their history, the Sen and Shah dynasties maintained close familial ties through intermarriage, fostering frequent and enduring interactions between the two lineages.

Mukunda Sen I

During the reign of Mukunda Sen I, Palpa was a significant power. According to Tharu oral traditions, Mukunda Sen reached Kathmandu after defeating various kings and nearly conquered the city. From Kathmandu, he advanced to Chitwan, spending nights in Thankot and Bhimphedi before reaching Bharatpur, where he dispersed his army. King Mani Mukunda Sen’s Palace in Butwal, once a grand structure and the winter residence of King Mukunda Sen I (1518-1553 CE), also known as Mani Mukunda Sen, now stands in ruins, with only the walls surviving. This palace, located in Butwal, was renowned for its size and architecture, featuring six massive rooms that housed the king during the colder months. The grandeur of the palace, though diminished, is still reflected in its surviving walls, which hint at the impressive scale and craftsmanship that once defined the building.

Ramapithecus Park

The Palpa-Butwal road section along the Siddharth Highway crosses a region rich in historical and paleontological significance. Notably, it encompasses the Ramapithecus Park, marking the site of a pivotal discovery in human evolutionary history. In 1932 CE, G. Edward Lewis unearthed the molar teeth of Ramapithecus, an extinct primate, at Tinau Khola. While initially considered a direct human ancestor, subsequent research has placed Ramapithecus within the orangutan lineage. Paleomagnetic analysis of the surrounding rocks has dated this ancient hominoid’s presence in the Siwaliks of Nepal to approximately 11 million years ago, establishing it as one of the earliest known fossil primates. The Ramapithecus Park, though currently modest with a single Ramapithecus idol, commemorates this significant discovery. The park offers a serene environment with views of the Tinau River. The upcoming establishment of a museum dedicated to this archeological find promises to enhance the visitor experience in the park.

Siddha Baba temple

Situated on the right side of the highway connecting Butwal to Palpa, the Siddha Baba Temple holds significant historical and religious importance. Legend associates the temple with King Bhartrihari of Ujjain, renowned for his renunciation of worldly pleasures after the loss of his wife. Seeking spiritual enlightenment, he embarked on a journey of self-discovery under the tutelage of Guru Gorakhnath, a legendary yogi. This path ultimately led him to this sacred site. Through rigorous spiritual practices within a nearby cave, Bhartrihari is believed to have attained “Ashtasiddhi,” the eight supernatural powers. This profound spiritual experience has imbued the Siddha Baba Temple with a strong aura of spiritual significance.

Devotees flock to the temple, particularly during festivals like Shivaratri, Ekadashi, Purnima, and Saturdays, seeking blessings and fulfillment of their desires. The temple, an important site for archeology in Butwal,houses fascinating Shivalingas and idols of various deities. The temple serves as a venue for residents to conduct marriages and other religious ceremonies, seeking divine blessings for auspicious occasions. While recent landslides have temporarily closed the road leading to the temple, the temple itself remains undamaged.