While most travelers choose to traverse the magnificent Himalayas of Nepal, I embarked on a journey off the beaten path during my month-long exploration of the country. This extraordinary route took me through the diverse landscapes of Nepal, encompassing flatlands, lush forests, picturesque tea plantations, rolling hills, and serene lakes. Each moment was filled with excitement and wonder. Beginning and ending in the bustling city of Kathmandu, my adventure comprised a circuit that involved two domestic flights to and from the Koshi province of Nepal – first to Biratnagar, and the return flight from Bhadrapur. 

Known for its flatlands, the Terai region, as the locals call it, lies in close proximity to the Indian state of Bihar. As I soared above, I was in awe of the gradual transition from hills to fields sprawling out beneath me. This shattered my preconceived notion of Nepal being solely a land of hills and snow-capped mountains, replacing it with the realization that the country is indeed made up of a tapestry of topographies. With its stark difference from hilly and mountainous regions in Nepal, the Terai offers an experience marked by its distinct and unique cultures, along with opening up a new range of imagery to associate with the country.

In between the two flights, my sojourn was a remarkable road trip. I had the quintessential experience to have in a foreign land as I traversed areas of the country, going from city alleys to remote hamlets. The freedom to meander through these varied landscapes was an unparalleled delight. Throughout my journey, there was one particular stop that left an indelible mark on my memory—Dhankuta, a quaint hill town and the administrative center of the Koshi, nestled in the Dhankuta District of Eastern Nepal.

Legend has it that Dhankuta was a favored summer retreat for Nepal’s royal families. Upon setting foot in this charming town, I soon discovered why. The distinctive appearance of Dhankuta unfolds as a vivid landscape painted in shades of orange, with ancient houses perched on top of meandering hill roads. This region was once blessed with abundant orange groves, capable of satiating the appetite of the entire nation and even exporting surplus produce. Today, the orange town evokes nostalgic memories of a bygone era, as shifting lifestyles, changing topography, and technological advancements have contributed to a decline in orange cultivation.

As I wandered the streets of Dhankuta, I couldn’t help but notice the enchanting lanterns adorning the quaint balconies of the traditional wooden houses. These captivating lanterns were meticulously crafted by the local Newar community, symbolizing their vibrant presence in Dhankuta. The town also boasts orange houses adorned with Om symbols, a testament to its Hindu heritage. Each corner of Dhankuta reveals a blend of architectural beauty and cultural significance.

Beneath the open skies of Dhankuta, a sea of towering pine trees embraces the land, creating a mesmerizing forest that adds to the town’s allure. The serenity of the greenery, accompanied by the harmonious humming of birds, casts a spell on visitors. To truly immerse oneself in the wilderness of Dhankuta, a leisurely stroll through the dense forest of tall Salla (pine) trees is a must. The sheer magnificence of nature in this region never fails to captivate the soul.

One of the highlights of my visit was exploring the vibrant local market, known as the haat, which comes alive every Thursday. The haat offers a delightful feast for the senses, with an array of delectable goodies enticing visitors to indulge in the flavors of Dhankuta. The market is a testament to the region’s vibrant culture and provides an opportunity to engage with the friendly locals, learn about their traditions, and sample authentic Nepali cuisine. Dhankuta also serves as a haven for those seeking spiritual solace, with a plethora of temples in close proximity. These places of worship exude an aura of serenity and offer a space for introspection and reflection amidst the natural beauty that surrounds them. I had the privilege of witnessing the enchanting evening aarti rituals at Nishan Bhagwati, a revered temple in Dhankuta. Held every day at 6:30 PM, these rituals offered a profound spiritual experience. The temple, maintained by the Royal Nepal Army, has a unique tradition where women are not permitted to step within its sacred grounds. However, women are warmly welcomed to attend and actively participate in the aarti rituals within the temple premises.

Amidst the breathtaking landscapes and cultural treasures, my most cherished memories were forged during my stay at a community homestay in Dhankuta. While numerous hotels in the town center provide comfortable accommodations, I was drawn to the allure of experiencing the local way of life. The homestay, nestled a few kilometers away from the bustling center, offered a glimpse into the lives of a warm and hospitable family. The house, constructed with a harmonious blend of stone, wood, and cement, appeared as if it had sprung from the pages of a storybook. The entrance was adorned with vibrant gardens on both sides, guiding me towards the main entrance. A cozy open-air dining table outside the house served as a meeting place for bonding with the family—husband, wife, and their two children—who also owned a nearby residence. The family of four exuded a genuine simplicity in their way of life, and their warm acceptance of me touched my heart deeply. They graciously invited me into their lives and generously shared anecdotes from their own experiences. We connected on a profound level as they expressed their interest in hosting guests from distant lands, and we even exchanged food recipes. During our conversations, we explored the shared cultural threads between Nepal and India, particularly discussing the significance of dal (lentils) in both cuisines and how it is prepared differently across various regions. Despite their struggles to communicate fluently in Hindi and English, their broken words and efforts to engage in conversation forged a strong bond between us.

During my stay, I had the opportunity to participate in various farm activities, not only within their own land but also in neighboring farms. I was introduced to the six neighboring households, each with its own farmland, garden, and verandah. The presence of domestic animals such as cows, goats, hens, dogs, turkeys, and even quails added to the idyllic charm. I vividly recall the joy of collecting quail eggs from their enclosures—an experience that filled me with childlike wonder. Witnessing the sheer amount of labor and dedication required for farming, animal husbandry, and soil fertilization left me in awe of their daily toil. Theirs was a simple yet arduous existence, where even the simplest tasks, such as acquiring detergent powder, entailed traveling a few kilometers into the city.

Another day of exploration led me to the enchanting hill station of Hile, situated at a higher altitude along the same stretch of road. The most striking aspect was the rapid transformation of the weather within a mere 15 kilometers. A sunlit day in Dhankuta was swiftly engulfed by gray clouds and misty streets as I ventured into Hile. The town is instantly recognizable by the imposing structure of a traditional tongba Jar—a vessel used for a millet-based alcoholic beverage—that stands proudly at its crossroads. Hile’s tongba and sukuti (dried meat) are renowned throughout the region, attracting locals and tourists alike.

As I concluded my journey through Dhankuta, I couldn’t help but reflect on the myriad experiences that had left an indelible mark on my soul. The vibrant colors, the rich cultural heritage, the warm hospitality of the locals, and the ethereal beauty of the natural landscapes all came together to create a tapestry of memories that will forever be cherished. Among the memories that will undoubtedly remain etched in my mind, one stands out vividly—the experience of gathering quail eggs from their cages. It was a completely novel activity for me, and I must have collected at least five of those tiny, adorable, albeit pungent, eggs. Initially, I felt a bit uneasy, unsure of what to expect. However, immersing myself in this farm activity, under the guidance of my hospitable homestay host, turned out to be a truly special and memorable experience. Dhankuta, with its timeless charm, is an enchanting gem tucked away in the eastern corner of Nepal, waiting to be discovered by intrepid travelers seeking a unique and immersive experience.

Looking back on my time in Dhankuta and my overall journey through Eastern Nepal, I can’t help but feel a profound sense of fulfillment as a traveler. The experiences I had, the connections I made, and the breathtaking landscapes I witnessed have ignited a deep joy within the core of my being. The memories I’ve created and the adventures I’ve embarked upon have only scratched the surface of what this remarkable place has to offer. I find solace in knowing that my journey is far from over, and I eagerly await the day when I can once again immerse myself in the wonders of Nepal, ready to create new chapters in the story of my travels.